Showing posts with label namibia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label namibia. Show all posts

Thursday, 16 June 2016

give a little GLOW, watch it grow.


While serving in the US Peace Corps in Namibia, I was privileged enough to become involved with Camp GLOW (Girls and Guys Leading Our World), a worldwide Peace Corps initiative.

In most Peace Corps countries, Camp GLOW focuses specifically on girls' empowerment. In Namibia, Camp GLOW targets both female and male learners with the understanding that females can only be empowered once males also stand up for equality. Established in Namibia in 2000, Camp GLOW Namibia aims to increase equal distribution of leadership opportunities throughout Namibia. To accomplish this, GLOW works to: empower Namibian youth; foster self-esteem, leadership, communication skills, and goal setting; and to increase awareness of healthy lifestyle behaviors.

Camp GLOW 2016 will take place 19 August to 26 August. Camp provides an opportunity for many learners to meet Namibians from different regions and from various tribes. For the first time, many participants are exposed to places outside of their home community. Camp GLOW brings the best and the brightest future leaders together, creating growth opportunities and lasting bonds. It also provides a unique environment supported by nurturing and progressively conscience adults -€“ both Namibian and American. For the past fifteen years, Camp GLOW has enlightened learners, while helping them challenge traditional gender roles, cultural norms and stereotypes.

Camp GLOW is a life-changing experience for each learner. It is an opportunity to cultivate open-minded leaders for a more progressive future. The transformative and lasting effects of Camp Glow transcend far beyond the individual participants and undoubtedly, has a ripple effect that will impact the lives of numerous Namibians.

With the help of donations from local community organizations in Namibia, and donors throughout the USA and abroad, we have nearly reached the goal for this year's camp.

Help us fund this project by donating to Camp GLOW Namibia.

You can also copy the link here: https://donate.peacecorps.gov/donate/project/camp-glow-namibia/



EDIT: Camp GLOW Namibia has reached this year's funding goal for their 2016 August camp in Windhoek! 
Thank you to everyone who helped fund this project! 

a labor of love..

It's been nine months, almost to the day, since my completion of two years of service with the US Peace Corps in Namibia. It's been an interesting transition, living back in the states... Ups and downs, and while it's good to be back -- Namibia, I miss you so.

I didn't spend a lot of time behind a camera - it altered too greatly the interaction with my kids... but here is a sampling of my last days in Mangetti with my ridiculous, brilliant, wonderful, obnoxious students... These few snaps are some of my favorites: siblings and cousins side by side, (with a few class photos thrown in). Can you see the family resemblance? The full album can be found here.






  



















Apologies for any fuzzziness as I tinkered with the settings of a borrowed Olympus after my Nikon went kaput. And thanks to Ms. Ali for trusting me with your camera for a few weeks in the bush!

Saturday, 8 August 2015

to the mulizembeli who comes after...

I should be marking, but I’m still procrastinating.
The list of things I need to complete in my last forty-one days feels enormous.
And, like much of my service, feels like a continuation of… triage.
What are those important things, those last tasks that cannot be delayed, or ignored?

I’ve recently discovered there is a good chance that I’ll be replaced at my site.
That in itself is a relief. Not as a continuation of my project – that’ll either die or continue upon my departure – there is little I can do to control that. The library is there. The children use it every school day. I hope it’ll grow. They love reading, and painting, and simply having access to resources. What child wouldn’t?

But the volunteer that follows me—you’re going to face quite a challenge.
Some days it will feel like all you’re doing is plugging holes in the dam with nothing but your fingertips. [1]

And you need to be okay with that, because you’re a small cog in sluggishly evolving and ill-greased machine. Some days you’ll want to strangle your colleagues. Sometimes you’re going to want to strangle your students…

You’ll live for those days when you see the triumph on a child’s face as they grasp a new concept. When they finally feel confident enough to approach you for help. Conquering BODMAS in mathematics board races. Sounding out words, and realizing that reading isn’t an insurmountable task… It just takes practice.

New volunteer, you’ll have to follow my service—so a thing you’ll hear of, everyday, is my name (at least, at first)… Apologies.

Ms. Hope did this, Ms. Hope liked that, Ms. Hope told me this. It’ll drive you batty. Two years later, I’m still hearing about Mr. James Butler. Still being asked if I know him. A good three - four years after his World Teach service ended. Who knows… After I’ve said 946 times that the Americas are quite a large place, and no, I haven’t met Mr. James Butler… Maybe they’ve gotten the idea...

I hope that you stick it out your full two years of service. I’ve been mentally composing the letter I'll write to you for a couple weeks now. And, so as not to scare you, it will likely be a much shorter version of this…

I want you to know both how important you are… And how insignificant.
Peace Corps service is a journey and a struggle with maddening ups and downs.
It is also not at all about you in the slightest.

We’re here to exchange knowledge, fulfill a need for qualified staff, start tough conversations, and, yes, plug the dam. The goal is for our projects to be sustainable.[2] And sometimes they are. I, and the last volunteer in my village, have endeavored to tackle the low literacy rate. I’m not sure I was able to get much further than he.

The trouble with sustainability is you need host country nationals to invest in a project, and reading culture doesn’t really exist here… yet. So many of your colleagues will have been raised and studied within the ‘Bantu’ education system.[3] They weren’t read to by their mother every night. They didn’t get their own personal library card in the second grade. Often times, their parents might not even be able to read. Or if they can, it is Afrikaans in which they are fluent, that remnant of a language from their school days so long ago. Only now, twenty five years from independence, is the reading culture being developed – nursed into being. The flames need fanning. 

Adjust your expectations.
And recognize that as you are integrating into your village, so are your colleagues.
We live in the far bush—four to five hours in all three directions from the nearest towns.

New volunteer, you will be isolated. You will get dropped off, in the bush, and left behind by PC as they veer back an hour toward the tarred road and continue several more hours into Kavango. You’ll wonder what the hell you’re doing there. Your host-country counterparts… Most of them are thinking the same thing.

Six of sixteen of my school’s teachers started their first year teaching in Mangetti, three months before I arrived. Those cultural adjustments you’re making – your colleagues are making them too. They’re fresh out of college, struggling with classroom management, and they’ve been transplanted into the bush – they been living in a city for the past five-ten years, if not their whole life.

Share what you know, and recognize that you can learn a lot from your colleagues. You are, chiefly and most importantly, giving host-country nationals a chance to spend time with someone from a different culture, who speaks fluent English. You may not know how wildly radical a thing that is, living on the Red Line. [4]  

And the fact that you’re following a volunteer, and will hopefully be replaced by one… That too, is important. Because as 'insignificant' as you are, you’re not interchangeable. You are you. The only one. People realize that. They compare and contrast you with others. Start to see the differences from one to the next. You’re helping to break down stereotypes without even knowing you’re doing it, simply by participating in their lives.

And, as a teacher, a colleague, and, in the end—simply a villager—that will be among the greatest impressions you leave behind. Compelling others to take a look from a different view point. To empathize, and explore the things they thought they knew – and to consider the origins of their opinions.

I am so grateful to have been placed in my village, in Mangetti, Kavango West, Namibia.
My colleagues are amazing. Many of them are wonderful teachers. Though our methods are different, our goals are in the same vein. And our children are bright – though they are starving to be challenged.

Among these young Namibians you will find budding artists, brilliant engineers and craftsman, amazing singers, energetic teachers, frankly remarkable linguists, inventive chefs, gifted agriculturalists, compassionate leaders, thoughtful philosophers, and a number of talented writers and story-tellers. They are the future generation of the ‘land of the brave.’ I’m so looking forward to see what they’re able to accomplish.

New volunteer, I wish you all the best. I hope, too, that you love being here as much as I have.  



[1] When faced with the stark lack of resources, you might feel our education system is eons behind—but honestly, the progress I've seen, even in my two years, is remarkable. Though, it will likely face a rough transition over the next 5+ years, with the new marking standards that are going into implementation this spring. Oh, man... Our students and their parents are not going to be happy at first.

[2] A huge thank you to Mr. James Butler. You established a great library space in my village. And one, or both, of your parents sent over boxes and boxes of your childhood books. Many scrawled with your name in red crayon. (I use them as examples for our younger learners as how not to treat library books). Clearly you loved to read as a child. I am eternally grateful. As are our students who voraciously consume these remnants of your childhood. You’ll be happy to know, our library is greatly expanded. We’ve added over a thousand books—and counting—since your departure (though the battle against termites continues.)

[3] Corporal punishment, unnecessarily strict rules, and low expectations will drive you insane.

[4] Daily multi-cultural interaction is a radical thing south of it, too, though. Great respect to the volunteers who must deal with so-called ‘Africa-Lite.’ That is an entirely different struggle, and I do not envy you those prejudices, and the out-right racism you, your students, and colleagues have to deal with so frequently. Though I do envy you your born free students’ access to caregivers that don't have the generational Afrikaans-English language barrier issue.

Tuesday, 23 June 2015

selfie.


Photography is such a slippery medium. 
You never know what emotion you're going to capture. 
Or whether, in fact, your subjects will look like themselves. 
A random thought, a flash of memory and the face contorts; you've photographed an entirely different person. Maybe, though, that's the whole idea.

doodle no.587


I am a perpetual procrastinator, and unfortunately, it seems to work for me. Though I could live without the stress.. This ink and paper design is an example of an artistic surge under the pressure of procrastination (and a missed submissions deadline.)
After multiple google searches of African relics and artifacts for inspiration, I figured I'd just give up and fall asleep... Then this doodle, by inveterate 'doodler' Miriam Badyrka, showed up randomly... And then I figured, what the hell... Doodles are what I do. 
Above is my take on the 25 year anniversary of Peace Corps in Namibia.  Looking forward to cleaning this image up a bit, and digging out my art supplies in the states and silk-screening this graphic (minus text)... 

Tuesday, 16 June 2015

drunk, adjacent.

This weekend held host the semi-traumatizing task of choosing campers for a leadership camp. [1]  After two years interacting with adolescent kids in a rural community, and having once been one myself, I am sensitive to the importance of getting out of the village. [2]

Thankfully, there was a group of five making the final choices. In fact, I could only fully review half. It’s emotionally exhausting to hold such responsibility. And I’ve been a hiring manager, before. Easy in comparison. Adults you can hold to a higher level of responsibility, and therefore, their level of preparedness in an application.

Children… There is such potential. But potential can be tamped out. Left to deteriorate. Trying to triage and advance the applications for learners that could benefit the most… leaves you in desperate need of a drink. Wine to dull, chai to soothe.



[1] Camp GLOW Namibia. GLOW = Girls and Guys Leading Our World. Apart from my school library, it’s one of the most rewarding parts of my service. And we run into former campers, after the fact. One, who had attended camp a half decade ago, broke into song--an “energizer”—while making an assist on the other side of the counter at FNB.

You never can be sure what will make an impact on a child’s life. But a camp that’s all about empowerment of self, gender equality, advancement of civic responsibility and leadership can’t hurt, right?

[2] My mother fell for a man over the internet. He lived across the pond. Plus Camp Alexander Mack. Possibly the best camp, ever. (Sorry, Camp Singing Hills.) Plus tramping to antique shows the length and breadth of the North-Eastern US through my early childhood. I got out. Often. A privilege not many children are able to enjoy.

... random tid-bits from the weekend:

“You’re a Peace Corps Volunteer… You are here in the spirit of service, after all.”
                “It’s true. Next time, I’ll just lay down and let him have his way with me.”
“Well… That’s what I would've done.”
                “Now I know... Now I know.”

“You didn’t really talk to us. You were just off to the side with L— and A—, drinking.”    
                “You were a PCT... PCVs aren’t allowed to drink with them.”
“You were drunk.”
                “I wasn't drinking 'with' you.. We were at a party… I was drunk, adjacent.”

Monday, 23 March 2015

the trifecta

Saturday was Namibia’s 25th Independence Day.
Naturally, the only logical course of action was to watch the film Independence Day. [1]
And fully enjoy the one-two-three punch of cocky/cheesy/nerdy sexiness from a young Will Smith, Bill Pullman, and Jeff Goldblum.

This, of course, came up in conversation with a friend the next day.
Both single, we were discussing our current romantic entanglements... Or lack thereof...
We worked our way around to the clichéd question of “What’s the ideal?”

“Hmm. I guess somewhere between Oded Fehr and Jeff Goldblum.”

“So… Jewish?”

“Uh… Ha. Seems like?”

To which we both dissolved into laughter.

Add that to this here ridiculous image that M randomly posted on the fb.
And we've hit the Goldblum trifecta this weekend.
They say good things come in threes.



[1] You know, after watching the inauguration celebration with my host family. 

Wednesday, 4 March 2015

conversational jazz (ἐ)

“Do you talk to everyone like this?”

I was a little buzzed, leaning back on the blanket, staring up at the Milky Way. (λ)
And to be honest, the question flustered me. It wasn't offered in the usual accusatory tone. In fact, it was half surprise, half compliment. (Or so it seemed so at the time, I wasn't one hundred percent sober). I’m not sure I gave a completely honest answer.

I wish more people would let me talk to them in the manner that my brain organizes my thoughts. Thing is, many find it disconcerting. Or annoying. Occasionally infuriating.

I will detour from the conversational path, briefly on a tangent. I’m still going in their general direction—I’m just taking the scenic route—surely there will be another exit to the interstate along the way.

I've never understood the annoyed burst from someone, “What the hell does that have to do with it?”

And I’ll blink, wondering what the hell they’re so frustrated about, and then explain the logical progression to whatever my memory or some firing synapses had recalled or produced.

People get on a roll, and hold it against you if their line of thinking is interrupted. Or you’re seen as rude should your mind appear to wander from their sparkling repartee.

As if on the brink of scientific discovery, eyes wild with their train of thought stretching out ahead of them, rather than just standing around sharing some anecdote they've shared before, polished in front of a different crowd of people.

At least, that’s how it can feel. Then, though, I've always been more of an awkward, outgoing introvert, myself. (π)  I like it when people just let me be that way. Not have to put on a façade and pretend otherwise. Having to be crass, or sophisticated, or learned, or funny, or whatever the situation calls for, to bolster the ego of someone else for the sake of social niceties.. It's exhausting. (ί)

So, no. The honest answer is I don’t. I rather wish [hope] more people would let me, though. (ς)

Summer Milky Way | Farm Hakos/Namibia |  Gerald Rhemann



(ἐ) Or 'the odyssey and oracle.'

(λ) In the past month I've read several articles on the disappearing Milky Way. I assume they mean in the states. The night sky in Namibia is, without contest, one of the most staggering things I've seen in my entire life.

(π) Awkward is one of the eight or so words I've spelled incorrectly my entire life, without fail. It wasn't until my twenty-ninth year, that I realized I could remember to spell it correctly, by considering that the picture it presents graphically is, in of itself, awkward. How could it not be, with two “w’s” shoved on the front end of the thing?

(ί) Though, prurient conversations, I take exception to that kind of vulgar. The ribald, I am very relaxed with.. Then again, talking openly about sex just seems like good common sense.  

(ς) Or, ἐλπίς in the Greek... 

Wednesday, 4 February 2015

the usual suspects

I miss my friend, E—. At staging, and at pre-service training, this man came off as high energy. HIGH energy. Nothing, though, was better than when he was his mellow self and just sat down to talk. Which really is his forte. Getting to the meat of the matter with no pretense.

No topic was off limits. Some topics, strangely specific.
Linguistics of oppressive labeling in speech was one we bandied about during lulls one day at a gender camp we ran last year. He’d sidle up, and whisper, “And what about this...” And off we’d go on a tangent, instead of corralling the youth.

My last memorable conversation with him, though, was about plans. And how they change.
To E—, if my memory serves correctly, a plan is made with success of the goal in mind. The inability to reach the goal isn't a total failure, but to change a plan—it is more akin to weakness than strength.

I could probably pinpoint the root of this philosophy somewhere in his personal experiences… A personal tale of surmounting the odds and knocking goals off the punch list, if there ever was one. But, I couldn't help but disagree with him.

Plans are forever drawn. A layout of where things should go, and the way things should happen. They are scrapped, re-routed, re-drawn, re-mapped.

We look for the best perceived route to the goal. Whatever that goal is.
In life, there are epiphanies and obstacles, dreams and revelations.

I’m of the opinion that when you want something, you work your way towards it, but if something else comes along you want, too—then figure out a way to get both. If you can’t have both, decide what you want more. Then work the conundrum again, and see if you can align both desires.  

For myself, the plan is always going to change. What I’m doing now isn't what I’d imagined I’d be doing ten years ago. What I’ll do next probably isn't what I planned on before the start of my peace corps service.

There are a finite number of choices… I acknowledge that reality. (And, in those choose-your-own-adventure books from my childhood, I’d make the wrong ones, always ending up suffocating, locked in some wardrobe.)  

But, now... Now the choices appear infinite. The trouble is—the beauty is—I don’t have an end goal in mind. So, now… Now is a time to line up all the options—and to try my hand sketching a route.

Even if that route is destined to change.

Monday, 2 February 2015

positively 4th street.

I couldn’t get the tune out of my head.
Then the whistling started.
But, what were the lyrics?
How would I find this song in my collection?
I knew the genre, right?
60’s rock. Chirpy intro, overall depressing theme.
To whom could I call and attempt a rendition?
Who would understand the strangled warble over the patchy cell service?
Unfortunately the only one who came to mind who could manage the task wasn’t a viable option.

It seems to go, that you’d consider other failures and false starts in times like these.
It triggered, too, another memory that once I’d had another person, who could take a 30 second phone call and manage a tune to match my memory.

Mistakes made today:
◦ Waiting until the last minute to buy bread. Slim pickings limited to white loaf.
◦ Arriving on time to combi. (Which is two hours late, in my book.) Waited two hours more for repairs.
◦ Leaving my green Coach in the combi. Contents included, but not limited to: my passport, American VISA, Namibian ATM card, all remaining VICA for the month, my MTC Netman dongle, last mint Blistex from stash, new neon-pink alpaca-knitted parrot finger-puppet, lock and key earrings.
◦ Bungling traditional Ruk greeting in haste to find combi, in effect, was rude to best friend’s mother, Clementine. 
◦ Opening my email.

Wonders experienced today:
◦ Overabundance of brie in the dairy aisle.
◦ Lone giraffe loping ahead of our combi in the full moon.
◦ Best friend Em, and cousin, Kavax, (also our combi driver) having already dropped off my purse back at my home, even as I was setting off under the night sky on the hunt in the general direction of the rukanda (location).
◦ Managing to remember the opening lyrics. Finding the tune on google. Finding it in the ranks in my zune.
◦ Not having to make a call to the south, because, it would have driven me mad, not knowing.
◦ Appreciating the irony of the song, the recall, and the trigger.


a rock, an island | Clear quartz found near Botswana, one breezy winter morning, last year.

Monday, 3 November 2014

the teats.

It’s absurd how political a playground can be. Hierarchical social groups and cliques. Leaders and followers. Nerds, geeks, jocks, loners, bitches, troublemakers, ditzes, gossips. The labels that are assigned by adults and children, alike, which are then perpetuated and regurgitated thoughtlessly, and endlessly for all time.

The basketball courts for one group, the kickball diamond another. The swings, the see-saw. They were all reserved turfs. They would shift from time to time, but they always remained reserved. You needed to belong to a group to achieve access.

In my younger years, I was a bit of a loner. It wasn't that I didn't desire to have friends, but I found them inconstant, and prone to participation in the societal dance for acceptance and approval, a cotillion for which I had never catered to, nor been invited to participate.

I was an attractive, pale, skinny blonde girl with light hazel eyes, rocking a pair of pink plastic glasses. I have a lovely singing voice. I was the kid you sit next to during quizzes or exams. Physically, I developed early—around the sixth grade.

I was picked on and bullied consistently.
People I’d never met perpetuated rumors about me. People I’d rarely interacted with created them.  

It wasn't always so bad, but I found one has to develop a thick shell. It backfires on occasion. That thick shell gets heavy, and you can come to resent it from time to time. That you would be required to wear it in the first place. Why should you have to shoulder the arrogance of confidence as a protective shield?

But then you develop actual confidence. And then you’re derided for that, too.

When I was younger, I was considered too pale. I was asked on a weekly, sometimes daily basis if I was albino. Often by people who knew better, but were trying to get a laugh. Albinism is a genetic disorder in which a person has partial or complete loss of pigmentation (coloring) of the skin, eyes and hair. I do not happen to be albino.

As an aside, people who are born with albinism often face ostracism, and occasionally, violence, from their community. I can’t say I've dealt with even a fraction of the issues someone who lives with such a disorder faces. But I wasn't left untouched.

I was told constantly that I needed to get out in the sun. Go get a healthy tan. You’re too pale, don’t you ever go outside?

This was during the first waves of the tanning bed craze. The early nineties, when people were overcooking in beds. Turning your skin orange was fashionable. (There seems to have been a recent resurgence in popularity).

And for a minute, I tried in vain to tan. My sisters have the right skin for it. They could achieve a ‘healthy’ tan. I turn lobster red. Insanity would have been repeating the same process and expecting different results. I learned my lesson. I burn. I gave up on the hopes of ever achieving a so-called ‘healthy glow.’

People have never shut the hell up about it.
For ‘white’ people, I’m just too white.

When you’re ‘too’ anything in our culture, it gets brought up constantly.

As a child, I was frequently apprised of being:
Too pale
Too white
Too ghostly
Too smart
Too intelligent
Too opinionated
Too insubordinate to elders (I’m from Indiana. Some of my fellow hicks deserve a healthy dose of irreverence for the insane things that they say).
Too loud
Too precocious
Too political
Too outspoken
Too talkative
Too vulgar
Too literal
Too subversive
Too plain        
Too pretty (?!)
Too self-aware
Too stupid to know I was supposed to be attracting boys (a specific confrontation with a bitch named Jessica in the sixth(!) grade in regard to my haphazard ponytail… how I wish I’d had made a comeback then to such absurdity)..
Too confident
Too active
Too reckless
Too much of a show off (for enjoying singing, and being quite good at it)
Too much of a know it all
Too direct
Too honest
Too assertive
Too stuck in my own imagination
Too happy
Too energetic
Too enthusiastic
Too comfortable with my own body

Aren't most of the things above, good things?
Is it people’s insecurities that make them so at the ready to stifle others?

The last on the list triggered this current rant.
I am comfortable with my body.
I like it. Whether I'm 85 kg or 65 kg, I’m an attractive and shapely woman.
I don’t really work out, and since I was once a dancer for a decade and a half, my body still keeps a decent shape. (It doesn't hurt I walk several kilometres a day through deep sand, though).
I’ll admit my shoulders are a little broad, but, they help me heft things during stints of manual labor, so I really can’t complain too much.
All in all, I like me. And I don’t feel an apology is in order for not being self-conscious about the way I look.

I have average sized breasts. Not big, not little. They’re just there.
I do not wear, and have never regularly worn, brassieres.
Since I started to develop at age 11, I rarely felt the need to wear a bra.
In athletics, and while dancing.. Sure. Wrap ‘em up and strap ‘em down.

But daily life? I never saw the point.
To me, brassieres feel uncomfortable (yes, even when sized correctly) and I just didn't understand why, for so many people, my breasts were a major concern for them..

My father asserted on multiple occasions that my lack of bra was indecent.
My camp counselor complained, and tried garner support from other counselors to institute an underwear dress code policy (she was an idiot, and didn't realize she was flirting with a lawsuit, quite obviously).
Other females in my peer group would call me variations of slut, whore, and prostitute.
Strangers (usually women) would come up to me, berate me, and ask me why I wasn't wearing a bra.

This was all before I was 14 years old.
People consistently tried to make me feel uncomfortable about my own body, and my choice to not wear a miniature strait-jacket to reshape and artificially lift my breasts.

I've always wondered why it’s such a hot topic.
And why people think they have the right to discuss my breasts outright in conversation, as if they don't belong to me at all.
What is wrong with the natural shape of my breasts?
Who deemed it a requirement to hold them up in uniform half circle cups, just so?
There aren't any adverse medical side effects from not wearing one...
And in fact, a study completed within the past decade highlights that constant artificial support can actually make the muscles fibrous, and cause the sagging effect that so many women seem to fear.

Boobs. Boobies. Tits. Teats. Breasts. Jugs. Cans. Racks.
They’re just sacs of fat hanging around in the event I choose to have kids and decide to offer them up for feeding.

Breasts are constantly sexualized, and they’re something of which heterosexual males are so fond… Sure, they’re soft and squishy, and nice to get a handful of, but while breasts can be an erogenous zone… So is the inside of my elbow, my wrist, my neck. Skin in general—an organ—not a sexual organ, but certainly relevant in the general enjoyments of sex. We want to be touched. Enjoying sex does not make you a slut. And whether a woman is wearing a bra or not is not a litmus test as to how soon she’ll be primed for mating. 
Women who do not wear bras simply do not wear bras.

I live, now, in southern Africa.
Many, many, women here do not bother with a bra. Its just another layer of clothing in this absurd heat. Female PCVs often talk about how they're adjusting to Namibian women being so comfortable with their bodies. Males bring it up too, but not in the same way. They've been introduced to un-self-conscious breast-feeding, which doesn't happen often in ‘Western’ culture.

Because I’m an American, and therefore one of ‘them’ I get a lot of flack in regard to my unbound breasts. A lot of skeptical and suspicious questioning, or comments—by women particularly..

The origin of this particular tirade is this:
We trade slights more readily in our culture than we trade compliments.
And the compliments we seem to muster are so often offered wholesale and speciously.

The other day I met a lovely woman in our Peace Corps lounge.
She had just transferred to our group, and we got onto the topic of age, and shared ours in a round. She has fantastic skin, and I mentioned it.

Before she could even process the compliment, or reply, I was derided outright, by another woman, for offering an honest compliment. As if my mentioning that this woman has great skin was, in fact, an insult if one factored in her age..
What was inappropriate about this earnest compliment? 
Was this other woman offended I didn't compliment her, instead? If so, why?
It seemed a gross overreaction.

Later at dinner, the group reconvened.
Four women who had known each other for a year’s time, and our new addition.
At one point in the dinner, a remark was directed toward me, that it was “surprising that [I] wasn't a fan of Halloween, because I must really love those slutty costumes, because [I] don’t wear a bra.”

I must be honest, it left me reeling. Because I don’t wear bras, I should enjoy overtly sexualized and demeaning Halloween costumes? Forget that my current state of dress—baggy cotton pants and an oversized sweater—covering me from ankle to wrist was antithetical to the rude implication of the comment... I tried to shake off how offensive this absurd and thoughtless remark was, and move on… So I got around to ordering..

I asked the waiter for the bar menu and he brought me back the wine list.
I ordered wine.
It wasn't in stock. I figured I’d check out the list and make another selection.
When I realized he’d brought only a wine list and not the bar menu, he’d already moved over to the next table. It was a full house and a busy night.
I figured I’d ask again on his next pass. No rush.
He comes back. I ask for the bar menu. He says he doesn't think there is one. I ask if he’s sure, and which beers do they have? He tells me there are only three beers, not enough for a list. (But fails to tell me their prices or options).
Although I have ordered from the bar menu a half dozen times, and was surprised, I didn't pursue it, because it seemed silly to argue the point. I’d just settle with wine. He’d told us at the start of the meal that he was new, and I figure he’ll find out about the half-size menus stored at the bar at some point.
I ordered another bottle of wine instead.
No big deal.
This second exchange took about thirty seconds, tops.

He left the table, and the three women I knew well jumped all over me for being rude.
For asking someone for a bar menu?
Wouldn't it have been rude to argue the point, go get the menu from the bar two rooms away and wave it in his face? Did I do anything remotely close to that? I didn't think so.

I was taken aback.
How is it that these women who were wholly nonchalant when another suggested that I must like to dress ‘slutty’ because I don’t wear bras, are so wholly offended on behalf of a stranger being asked a standard question in the course of his job?

Who else am I supposed to ask for a menu or drink prices?
The gardener?

And why is the perceived offense more important than the insult you've just dealt to a person you’re dining with? Was it because he is Namibian? Does that automatically make him someone to protect? And isn't that protectionism more than a little insulting?

I’ll admit, this soured my mood for the rest of the evening. I felt ganged up on, and then was told I was making people uncomfortable by my mentioning that I was offended by the belittling comment made toward me. What?!  What is it I’m allowed to say or talk about?
Should I talk about the music and the size of the room? The number of couples?

Peoples from so-called 'Western societies' have the strangest sense of entitlements.
This occurs to me often in the arrogant way that Americans, in particular, feel that they have the ability to embark upon any topic, without having any expertise or first-hand information, versus the trivia they've accumulated second and third-hand. Masters of bull-shit, we are..

There are also the times, too, when someone will point out cultural, or personal choices that break from social norms with derision and ignorance. Dismissive of difference. As if people should just get used to ‘the way it is’ for the greater good. Don’t disrupt the flow.

Plus we can be loud, brash, and often thoughtlessly cruel in the manner in which we speak.

Why am I considered rude for telling someone honestly and earnestly, without aggression or viciousness, that they've said something I know to be disrespectful or untrue? Why should I be treated like a caricature of myself, simply because some people find me to be ‘different?' I am not impervious to insults or slights. They hurt, and they piss me off. I have no problem asserting my right not to be taken down a few pegs simply because someone dislikes me or my choices—especially in things that affect them in no way, whatsoever…

It's too bad that it might make you less uncomfortable if I were uglier, had acne, a darker skin tone, and less long blonde hair. Or if you’d like it more if I were stupid, unintelligible, or depressed. Or for any resentment you may have for my possession of a body type that I had nothing to do with, apart from acquiring my parent’s particular combination of DNA.

I feel no need to apologize for things outside my control.
Furthermore, these are things about myself I have no desire to change.
Work on yourself. I’m doing just fine.


I once had an ex-boyfriend (in my mid-twenties) tell me that I should put on a bra because if it turned cold that night, ‘people would be able to see that I have nipples’

See that I have nipples?
Doesn't everyone have nipples?
Why might someone knowing I possess them set off a frenzy?

Some people are just hopeless...



The above digital art illustration, 'Boobs' by UK designer Tiago Caetano, can be found here

Friday, 17 October 2014

distractions.

I didn’t so much ditch the last half of school today.. As much as I fled.

Fridays are my favorite day of the week. Not only because of the obvious. All of my classes are within the first four periods of the day.

Which means I’m done by 9:40am. Three solid hours of work and class time, and my obligation has ended for the week. I’m free to beg off and bolt.

Today, instead of heading home, I made for the government(ish) office in my little village in the middle of the bush. They have wi-fi. Mostly, it works..

Here’s the thing about our little arrangement on my borrowing their broadband..
I refuse to sit in the office.  They offer, nicely, every time I stop by..

This is the government(ish) office where the four other persons who could be referred to as pale in my village are frequently found (well, at least three of them). They manage the cattle ranch which employs the vast majority of the population in this odd little cattle region..

Except for the clinic nurse, myself, and the other teaching staff at school (and most of the 386 learners); everyone in my village is employed by the ranch.

It might not make sense, but something just feels wrong treating those offices as if they were my own personal space, to come and go as I pleased... Even when I’m given leave to do so...

Anyway, I’m off early.
And since the internet – the real internet, not the achingly slow connection provided by my 2G USB adapter – is a rare treat, I had things to download, update, and install. Pressing things. The constantly warn you the digital apocalypse is about occur if you don’t update your operating system alerts, because you’re still working a few versions or plug-ins back.

And did I do any of that before my computer died?
Nope.

Like an impressionable child distracted by a shiny object within their field of vision, I was distracted by skype. How funny to have a video chat on the lawn as people are streaming around you. An unexpected treat for this Friday.

Sixty some days till Malawi?
Sixty days…

Lake Nyasa, Nhkata Bay, Malawi


Thursday, 9 October 2014

this is africa, ne?

It doesn't always feel like I live where I live.
Despite the mud huts, the donkey carts, and epic tracts of sand traversed..
It’s surprisingly easy to forget..

Yet, something about wading amid deep hippo footprints and elephant
dung, pushing aside papyrus looking for a private spot to piss, on an island in the middle of the oKavango, really does trigger a realization as to one's current locale.

The weekend was spent near the mouth of the Zambezi [Caprivi] Strip around Divundu.
A couple of nights sleeping next to the oKavango River in an old hulk of an RV camper, with the sweet grunts of hippos as a lullaby through the night.

It was beautiful.
The icing, though, was the boat ride, piloted by an experienced guide, and an abundance of wildlife.

Palms | Kavango River

African skimmers | Kavango River

Bundled papyrus | Kavango River

Carmine bee-eater | Kavango River


Look closer, they're shy.. A lesser jacana. | Kavango River

Kids fishing | Kavango River

Pod of hippos | Kavango River


Crocodile | Kavango River


Fish Eagle | Kavango River


That shadow there? Its an elephant. | Kavango River


African skimmer eggs | Kavango River


Fishing | Kavango River


Bird in flight | Kavango River


Goliath Heron | Kavango River


Lily | Kavango River